Australian design duo Ralph & Russo showcased their debut Ready To Wear collection at this seasons London Fashion Week to a 400 strong audience who were enraptured from the off. Renowned for its intricate couture collections, the luxury label incorporated its flair for floor length gowns alongside metallic denim cocktail creations and sheer evening wear.
THIS IS FASHION MADE BY HUMAN STORIES
A continuation of AW17 The Body | Part I; Teatum Jones move into SS18 The Body | Part II, as part of their 12 month long examination of our relationship with the human form.
Teatum Jones’ SS18 collection is a creative homage to Natasha Baker the “Horse Whisperer.” Natasha is a GB Paralympic dressage eleven-time gold medalist. Natasha suffers from Transverse Myelitis and from the waist down has no feeling in her legs. In spite of this, she manages to mount a three quarter tonne animal and make it perform effortless- ly, dance gracefully and create magic in front of thousands of spectators.
SHAPES & SILLHOUETTES
Inspired by Natasha’s open, feminine and contagiously bright personality, SS18 silhou- ettes re-explore Teatum Jones’ archival strength in drape and feminine fluidity.
The collection features serene summer tailoring, fine merino knits alongside oversized utility shift dresses and swathes of fabric displaying asymmetric dress hems, cut out sleeves and ‘pick up’ draping.
Continuing from AW17’s concept of optional tension, the use of industrial sized eyelets and straps allow the wearer to independently rediscover a diversity of volumes, tensions and lengths to work on their individual body shape. Inspired by conversations about wheelchair mobility and the motion of picking up fabric to remove it from wheels, mani- fests itself in the ‘pick up drape’ seen throughout the collection in dresses, skirts, trench coats and statement shirting.
PATTERNS, FABRICS AND TEXTURES
Inspired by Natasha’s piercing sense of clarity and calm in the face of challenge; we see precision in colour-block pleated skirts, striped sequin embroideries, transparent flocked organza and the weightlessness of printed silk satins. Devore silks, named after Natasha’s former horse “Woody” are woven in a pattern based on the formation of a galloping horse.
All demonstrate a truthful and sincere approach to wearable, luxurious and desirable fabric developments signature to Teatum Jones’ accolade as textile pioneers.
Natasha’s intense connection with her horse has been captured in the romantic spring palette, of flesh pink and summer evening blue to demonstrate the empowerment and freedom that this connection gives her.
Show Jumping Rosettes inspire a graphic twill stripe in pastel blue and mint green, captured in oversized shirting and draped skirts. Black flocking plays as a bold graphic contrast making this delicate fabric almost 3D.
The unbreakable focus and determination between Natasha and horse is demonstrated in a stark palette of dark navy and rusty ochre wool embellished with duck egg grey fringing as part of a collaboration with Friday Fox Horse blankets.
Held on Day 2 of SS17 London Fashion Week presentations, this was a collection I was very much looking forward to. I really love Conrans tailoring and his nod to various fashion eras. I felt his autumn/winter collection had a real 60’s feel with its geometric prints and block heeled boots, however spring/summer had an air of 1950’s riviera chic about it encapsulating beautiful full skirts in delicate organza with exquisite embroidery. It was incredibly romantic. The show opened however with slightly darker tones for Spring/Summer of khaki, navy and forest brown and had an altogether more utilitarian feel. Shirt dresses featured eyelet fastenings, D ring belts, and sleek waist purses and cross body bags. The lines were simple and sophisticated and ‘formed for summer streets’ as highlighted in the editors notes. Keeping the tailored silhouettes the collection moved into fresher tones incorportating white, tomato and lime combined with graphic checks and deckchair stripes. As each model walked the runway the progression of the collection was extremely effective as you could see how patterns had been combined to create a new version of Jaspers theme, making for a very coherent showcase. Pencil skirts became full, whilst bodices remained the same, then full skirts eventually became dreamy organza dresses in soft hues of powder blue and peach adorned with beautiful embroidered leaves, birds and flowers. It really was a beautiful, sophisticated collection that oozed experience and master craftsmanship. I loved it!
Held at the Brewer St Carpark, Williams gave an immediate introduction to the tone of her latest collection which in the editors notes had been inspired by her love of late teen heartthrob River Phoenix Set in a late 80’s early 90’s girls bedroom, complete with madonnas bedtime stories cd, tv with built in video player (ah the days before on demand) giant teddybears, candy coloured balloons and the theme tune from Jurassic Park on loop, I was instantly transported to more care free days when the closest you could get to your idol was via a poster from Just Seventeen or Sugar magazine. Sweatshirts, T-shirts, dungarees and billowing sleeves made their way down the runway adorned with waist cinching belts complete with classic diamante buckles. This was a collection that harked back to the late 20th century as Williams tailoring incorporated charcoal grey box suits and grandma floral prints combined with crystal accessories and wrap around silver shades worth of any laser quest battle. It seemed to be a celebration of her adolescence with many details such as the crystal hair slides worn by many of the models evoking a strong feeling of nostalgia. It was an eclectic collection that left me feeling excited that a new generation would be coveting the classic 'Saved by the Bell’ Kelly Kapowski sweatshirt and Zak Morris baseball jacket and thinking of a time when I used to wish that Macualy Culkin was my boyfriend.
Fresh from winning the international Woolmark prize Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones created a fabulous collection to the soundtrack of Scotland's human stories. Staying true to the labels ethos of being driven by human narrative the designs were inspired by Scotland's Rennie Mackintosh's early 20th century romantic watercolour paintings of botanic flowers and landscapes combined with late 20th century Glaswegian house ravers whose laser lights created excessive visual geometry. The collection was a vibrant mix of delicate floral satins and toughened paint splattered canvases with geometric jaquard in between. I really loved the collection and I felt that the duo who are often referred to as 'method designers’ completely encaspulated all of the elements they had been inspired by. My favourite piece was this gorgeous structured dress with its leather bust and waist detail in the strong geometric jacquard I mentioned earlier. I liked the the collection was wearable whilst still allowing the designers to showcase their artistry.